The dresses have fashionable wide skirts, reflecting the contemporary popularity of crinolines. The off-the-shoulder seam and sleeves with width at the elbow are typical of the 1860s. The lengths of skirt that used to fall over the crinoline were gathered up at the back over a bustle. Following the example set by Charles Worth in Paris, dressmakers had begun to identify the clothes they made. Hair was worn quite long, but swept to the sides. Aim. It was known as the 'Louis' after the famous French kings of  the 1700s. This plate shows day dresses. MortonMuseum no. 3DEP DEMs interpolated from Shirt collars were stiff and upstanding, with the tips turned down into wings. The sitter is Agathonike Fenerli (1845-1920). The figure of the young girl is partially balanced and echoed by the camera reflected in the mirror and the embroidery resting on the table beside it. This dress, veil and a pair of boots also in the museum's collection (T.43B, C-1947) were worn by Eliza Penelope Bright, nee Clay (the mother of the donor) for her marriage to Joseph Bright at St James's, Piccadilly on 16th February 1865. Princess dresses, like this one, suited this style particularly well. Portrait of Violet Lindsay, Duchess of RutlandFrederick Hollyer (1837-1933)About 1890EnglandPlatinum printMuseum no. During the 1860s the fashionable skirt became flatter in front with the fullness receding towards the back. I've changed hosts so you can navigate the site faster. The closely fitting bodice of dark green velvet is embellished with an iridescent beaded panel. She was probably responsible for the introduction of the shorter skirt which led to a greater emphasis on stockings and shoes. Day dress (skirt and bodice)Designer unknown1892-4France or ItalyPrinted silk, with insertion and trimmings of cream silk gauze, hem bound with pink velvet, lined with silk, whalebone supports in the bodice, and metal hook and eye fasteningsMuseum no. The free movement of the bicycle was seen as a symbol of equality and personal freedom. T.3-1982. They became so popular that the Tailor and Cutter of 1895 reported, 'The straw hat boom has boomed still more boomily, and the farmer is crying out that the wheat crop is short in the straw.' Photographic study of Isabella Grace, Clementia and Elphinstone Agnes Maude on terraceViscountess Clementia HawardenLondonAbout 1863-4Albumen print from wet collodion negativeMuseum no. The sleeves are long with a high pleated shoulder. The silk has a figured pattern of black and white leaves on a speckled ground. The skirt is composed of two layers, with the top tier extending from the waistband as far as the fifth row of fringe. Day dressDesigner unknownAbout 1870Great BritainSilk, trimmed with silk ribbon and silk satin, lined with glazed linen, machine and hand sewnGiven by Miss R. WilsonMuseum no. T.494&A-1913Given by Messrs Harrods Ltd. Opera boots were also known as 'Dress Wellingtons' and were often worn when going out to dinner, the theatre, opera and other social evening occasions. What is the difference between a sinkhole and a pothole? ››Enter dates. The red boots, which are of ribbed silk, come up above the ankle and have a 'military' style heel covered in silk to match the uppers. The long, tight sleeves are typical of the 1840s, while the short over-sleeves recall the elaborate sleeves of the 1830s. This means that a dollar today only buys 3.00% of what it could buy in 1850. The Queen showed examples with epaulettes, blouse fronts and pointed belts (2 April 1895). Morning coats were usually made of dark colours, and the fabrics included worsteds, diagonals, hopsack, ribbed meltons and beavers. Pagoda sleeves are set low to create a fashionable sloping line from shoulder to arm, and the sleeve itself flares outwards into a wide cuff. There is an overskirt over the back of the dress, accentuating the bustle that was now being worn underneath. Portrait of James DrewFrederick Hollyer (1837-1933)About 1890EnglandPlatinum printMuseum no. Hats were very small and tilted forward to the forehead. High class courtesans were paid more in jewels, housing, clothes, etc. It has an over-skirt and the bodice now extends below the waist. The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine of March 1868 recommended that there should be no more than 'two positive colours in a lady's toilet' and that 'very bright tints' should be toned down with white, black or grey to prevent a gaudy appearance. T.5-1982. In the 1860s it was fashionable for men's coats and jackets to be single-breasted and semi-fitted, extending to the mid thigh. Here her daughter Clementina poses beside a mirror. Help and Example Use. It was introduced in 1870 and was known as the 'University' or 'Angle-fronted' coat. This dress was probably made in the mid-1840s and then altered about five years later to accommodate a change in style. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics consumer price index, today's prices in 2020 are 3,238.31% higher than average prices since 1850. Boaters were stiff straw hats with a moderately deep flat-topped crown and straight narrow brim and with a hatband of Petersham ribbon (thick double ribbon which was generally watered, plain, figured or striped). T.206&C-1927Given by the Ingram family. This elegant bustle dress displays a dense pattern of violets springing from a bed of vine leaves. The sleeves are beginning to widen at the wrist into a slight bell shape. Her dress is off the shoulder, and her bodice is long and pointed at the front. The skirt is made with tiers and frills of lace. . T.164&A-1937Given by Miss Sophie B. 1850 Census Geography. 7859-1938Given by Eleanor M. Hollyer, 1938. Circ.204&A-1958Given by Rev. There were also reports of serious skin conditions caused by exposure to aniline dyes, and a dye firm in Switzerland was forced to close in 1864 due to arsenic pollution. It is mounted over a green silk petticoat, and boned and taped to a bustle shape at the back. 1. Her hair is parted in the centre and looped down over the ears. By the middle of the 19th century slippers or 'sandal shoes' were still widespread although by the 1850s they were worn largely only for formal wear in black or white. The bottom tier is attached to a taffeta underskirt. The Lasko model 1850 Performance pedestal fan is equipped with a multi-function remote for easy and convenient use. 1896: Plessy v. Ferguson, rules that state laws requiring separation of the races are DressDesigner unknownAbout 1888Great BritainSatin, with machine-embroidered panels and silk collar, cuffs and front with a velvet warp-figured stripeMuseum no. The style of the dress has been inspired by the colours and stripes of sailors' uniforms. Hats were small or wide with lots of trimming, but generally worn squarely on top of the head. The bodice of the dress has vertical slits fastened with buttons on either side of the centre front. The popularity of cashmere shawls reached its peak from the 1840s to the 1860s. One side of the train is faced with a triangular panel of gold and white figured silk. The sewing machine itself had only become widely available from the late 1850s. This example has large wide sleeves, as was fashionable for the period. 7862-1938Given by Eleanor M. Hollyer, 1938. It is made of silk satin in a tartan pattern. The morning coat was originally a single-breasted tailcoat, worn in the early 19th century, and also known as the riding coat (or 'Newmarket'). The donor was her great-niece. DressDesigner unknownAbout 1842EnglandSilk satin, lined with cotton, reinforced with whalebone, and hand-sewnMuseum no. The back draped over a bustle, and on evening dresses extended into a train. Lasko Metal Products was founded in 1906 by Henry Lasko in Philadelphia. Hair was worn high on top of the head, in tight curls. 7811-1938. As America moved to the suburbs in the mid-20th century, Lasko expanded into small appliances, fans, and household portable heaters. 1858-1938Given by Helena Hollyer, 1938. The dress fastens at the shoulder over a boned, green silk bodice lining. Weddings were one of the most festive social occasions. In the early 1870s a German chemist found traces of arsenic in fabric dyed with magenta, which could leak out in washing, rain or perspiration. . This was a popular colour as it implied purity, cleanliness and social refinement. By 1885 the bustle was often incorporated into the back of the foundation skirt itself in the form of a small pad attached to the waistband and horizontal rows of steel which could be pulled into a curved shape. For her wedding, a woman invariably wore a coloured dress that would serve as a ‘best dress’ for years to come. The skirt may have been altered and have lost a side panel. This garment is well made, with cleanly cut and finished appliqué and seams, indicating the work of a professional dressmaker. Made-to-measure clothes from Worth, as from the other great Parisian fashion houses, were an important symbol of social and financial advancement. Neckties were either the knotted 'four in hand', or versions of the bow-tie tied around the collar. 'Dress Wellingtons' were named after Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington (1769-1852). Other disputes arose over the health risk posed by the wearing and production of garments coloured with synthetic dyes. She is shown here in a high-waisted, uncorseted dress that was derived from classical costume. The dress on the right is mauve, a new colour at the time. Evening dress suit (jacket, waistcoat, trousers)Morris & CoAbout 1885LondonWool barathea with satin buttons and ribbed silk lapels; lined with black satinMuseum no. By the 1890s it had become popular for city wear. Day dress (bodice and skirt)Designer unknownAbout 1866Great BritainSilk trimmed with bugle beads and silk fringe, lined with cotton and whaleboneMuseum no. Fashion plate from the Englishwoman's Domestic MagazineEngraved by Jules David (1808-92), printed by Lamoureux & J. Frock coatDesigner unknown1871IrelandMuseum no. But is must be remembered that a straw hat or low hat cannot be worn with a black coat of any kind.' PH.151-1982, This photograph, of an unidentified male sitter, shows men's dress typical of the 1850s. This elegant example is based on the regimental patrol jacket characterized by parallel rows of applied braid across the breast, looped at intervals into designs known as 'crow's feet' because of their distinctive shape. T.222-1969. Charles Frederick Worth (1825-95) was a celebrated Parisian couture dressmaker. Fashion is moving away from the fussier trimmings of the early 1870s. This ensemble is typical of fashionable women’s daywear of the early 1870s. They may not have been more comfortable than other styles but the hard-wearing fabric and relative lack of trimmings made them easier to care for and very versatile. This elegantly designed pedestal fan from Lasko blends into surrounding decor and cools the largest home spaces. Hair was dressed high at the back with complicated twists and rolls, falling to the shoulders, adorned with ribbons, bands and decorative combs. Although at this date the frock-coat was gaining in popularity as formal daywear, the cut-away coat was still worn. His Portraits of Many Persons of Note fills three volumes with nearly 200 portraits and comprises a pictorial Who's Who of late Victorian and Edwardian celebrities. Redfern and Co. (designed and made by)1885-6EnglandFlannel trimmed with mohair, lined with sateenMuseum no. Lasko 1885 18" Cyclone Pedestal Fan with Remote Control, 18 inches White 4.7 out of 5 stars 721. According to the donor, this dress was worn by his mother on her wedding day. Graceful movements and a perfect silhouette were promoted by the introduction of spring-steeled hooped petticoats in 1856, often referred to as crinolines. Hair was worn with a centre parting tied into low chignons at the nape of the neck, with loops or ringlets covering the ears. The puffed epaulettes at the top of the sleeves indicate historical influences, particularly the 16th century. T.702-1913Given by Messrs. Harrods. The silhouette is very simple and unfussy, and the dress is loosely corseted or not at all - a distinctely unusual feature during the 1890s. As women engaged in a wider range of activities in the 19th century, more practical clothing styles were adopted. ; Birthday Calculator – Find when you are 1 billion seconds old 7867-1938Given by Eleanor M. Hollyer ,1938. Manners for Men (1897), by Mrs Humphry, stated:' For morning wear the morning-coat or jacket of the tweed suit is correct. Lady Hawarden achieved a very short exposure with her large camera, managing to photograph her daughters and a puppy without any discernible movement. The elaborate applied decorations of the 1830s are now no longer fashionable. 1860s women's dress featured tight bodices with high necks and buttoned fronts. The top hat was worn by the upper classes for formal  occasions. This necktie style was newly fashionable in the 1850s. The jacket buttons fashionably high up. 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